Collagen is the major structural protein in human skin, accounting for three-fourths of its mass. The strength of collagen fibers is what gives skin its firm, smooth and non-wrinkled appearance. Collagen is made and released by cells in the second layer of the skin called fibroblasts. Unlike women, men’s collagen starts to degrade at an earlier age and at a faster rate (about 6% per year). Older skin is generally thinner than younger skin because less collagen is made and more is degraded. This decay is accelerated mostly from exposure to the sun’s harmful UV-A rays, but also from smoking, stress, and poor diet. In fact, skin aged by the sun has up to 56% less collagen than sun-protected skin.
The thickness of the skin also varies by gender, as men have thicker skin than women at any given location on the body. This is a result of the greater collagen content in male skin. Collagen supplements taken in a pill form claim to improve wrinkles by boosting collagen in the skin. Keep in mind these supplements are not regulated by the United States Food and Drug Administration (FDA), and are therefore not required to prove or validate their claims using scientific studies. Basically, they can claim whatever they want as long as the label states: “these statements have not been evaluated by the Food and Drug Administration” and “this product is not intended to diagnose, treat, cure or prevent any disease”. Real medicines, like antibiotics, must prove that they work to the FDA before they can be marketed and sold.
Any food, drink or supplement we take goes through the harsh environment of the digestive tract, eventually being broken down by digestive enzymes. For example, proteins in steak or chicken are degraded by a host of enzymes called proteases, which allow the individual molecules to be absorbed into the bloodstream. From there, they are processed in the liver and sent to our internal organs, muscles and the skin. In the skin, the fibroblasts use these broken-down proteins as precursors to make new collagen. Since the digestive system can’t tell the difference between chicken, steak, or collagen supplements, the end result is the same.
In other words, collagen supplements are not transported to the skin in their original form, but rather broken down in our gut the same way any other food is. It is scientifically impossible that collagen in a pill form can increase collagen in the skin because it gets broken down in the digestive system. But don’t worry! Proven methods to increase collagen in the skin do exist. All-trans retinoic acid (Retin-A) cream, resurfacing procedures such as laser and chemical peels, as well as other non-surgical aesthetic procedures work by stimulating collagen production.
Dana Point Dermatology’s Bottom Line: Collagen supplements don’t boost collagen in the skin because they are broken down in the digestive system. So what’s proven? Daily sunscreen use can slow collagen decay while prescription-strength creams and dermatologic procedures can increase collagen production in the skin.
